Kalapaki Bay Challenge Experience

There are events that happen throughout history that mark the beginning of a historic change or shift in a sports development. I think the Kalapaki Bay Challenge will turn out to be one of them. That is why I chose to attend this historic event. I was too young to witness the historic events of surfing’s beginning, but I am lucky enough to be the correct age for foil surfing’s development. Foil surfing is gaining traction at an exponential pace. In the brief two years I have been foiling, the sport has gone from just a handful of surfers to a fledgling sport. I see and feel a lot of parallels similar to when I started snowboarding in the 80’s. Snowboarding went on to overtake skiing in popularity. I am doubtful that foiling will do this, but I do think that it will become much larger than it is now. I have no idea how many foilers there are now. I would guess in the tens of thousands around the world. That is such a small number. My guess is there are more surfers in my hometown of Newport Beach California than the total number of foilers in the whole world! This is my experience of this historic event, The Kalapaki Bay Challenge.

 I knew this trip was going to be great because when I arrived at LAX to check in at the airline’s kiosk  and it asked me if I wanted to upgrade to first class for $230, which after my rebate of $70 in baggage fees made it only $160 extra for first class. Yes please, I will take that deal. I arrived on Kauai Thursday afternoon well rested from my first-class travel and rented a car. I drove straight to my hotel the Garden Island Inn which was right across the street from Kalapaki bay. My room was ready and so was I, to go foiling that is. I unpacked my 4’0” Freedom Foil board and assembled my Armstrong foil. I choose my 1550 wing to try first. I had not even looked at the waves. I walked across the street and through a little field to see the set up for the first time. You could see the massive waves and wind going by outside the bay, but the inner bay where the surf broke was slightly side to offshore. There were lefts and rights with the waves mostly in the waist high range but a few head high sets. There were more foilers in the water than I had ever seen in my life before. I stood on the jetty area and being that I had a foil in my hand I was greeted with Aloha by others with a foil and advised of where and how to get into the water. There was this skinny kid introduced to me named Mateo and he was volunteered by the others to show me into the water. He was very kind and took the time to make sure I got in ok before we paddled over to the lineup.

Foil surfing is such a small sport at this point that when I got to the lineup I was immediately greeted by some familiar faces and recognized by my Instagram name @Surfdocsteve. It was an incredible feeling to travel thousands of miles and then be welcomed into a line up. I was a bit nervous since I did not want to fall flat on my face and look like a kook. The pressure amped up when I watched Mateo take off on a wave and then pump endlessly with what seemed like no effort to his second and third waves. Pressure!!! I made sure to not get inside anyone and choose a smaller wave to get my feet back since I had been working a week solid before this. The wave was forgiving on the take off and I got to my feet and concentrated with all my might. I pulled out of the wave and carefully pumped out to the lineup. I had managed to not look like I started foiling yesterday and I was able to relax a bit. I talked with everyone and it was a friendly atmosphere. The scene in the water was a little chaotic with SUP, Foil SUP, Surfers and Foilers all crisscrossing in the surf. I had never foiled such a busy spot. Everyone was friendly and no one seemed to be greedy for waves. Chaotic but friendly is the best way I can describe it. I surfed for an hour and learned the spot and some of its nuances.

Kalapaki bay is a good foiling wave but is not an easy wave to ride. The wind swell swings into the bay and this makes for a peak and shape that is constantly shifting around. If you do not pay attention you will be chasing ghost peaks all day long. I always watch the locals to see where they are sitting and taking off from. The wave take-off is easy except when the larger sets come in and then it can pitch up rather quickly. The smaller waves back off quickly leaving just a swell to pull the energy out of for foiling. There are waves that have faces as well but they seemed to be select angled waves. The ocean surface is in constant motion with lumps and bumps everywhere. This made for some surprise falls with your wing coming out or getting to deep in an instant. The inside was like a washing machine with it agitated by all the refracting waves from the jetty and rocky shore on either side mixed with some back-wash bumps from the steep sand beach on the inside. It looked rather intense, but was surprisingly easy to maintain speed and carve some turns in. Overall, the wave was a fun wave with no sense of danger, but some challenges to make it fun. After my session in the water I came in to meet other fellow foilers that I knew through Instagram. I was exhausted from the travel and the foil session full of waves. I walked back to my hotel to get a bite to eat and crashed.

I had met Jason Tanglin a few months back in Waikiki foil surfing. I followed him on Instagram and @foilfever is his tag. I had put out a post that I would be in Hawaii in August and he responded with Aloha and that I meet him to foil. He is such a nice guy and you can feel his passion for the sport. After our session we talked story and exchanged theories and opinions of foiling. He told me about the series of competitions he was planning. He had a vision of the sport and where he thought it was going. He seemed committed to advancing the sport in a good way with safety and respect being important components of foiling etiquette. I was impressed with his commitment to furthering the sport. I wanted to be a part of it but the competition was only for Hawaiians, so I wished him luck. I did not pay attention to the dates since I figured I would not be at the event. I saw his post on Instagram about The Kalapaki Bay Challenge, I looked at my schedule which is made many months in advance and I was off. I researched flights and everything aligned. I’m a firm believer in Karma and everything just fell into place.

Friday, I woke up early and switched tail wings to my new Armstrong 232 to give it a try. I walked over to the break to be greeted by some larger sets rolling through the lineup. I paddled into the lineup and was greeted by familiar faces. We all foiled together encouraging each other with hooting and hollering. I foiled for an hour and a half before getting out. Jason was there in the parking lot with Chris. We went to breakfast to refuel and talk some story like relatives you haven’t seen for a while do. It was great. Since I am not so young anymore, I walked back to my room to nap for a while to get ready for my evening session. The waves were getting a little bigger at this point, but nothing so intimidating that you could duck dive under a big set easily. It was close to 5 pm and time for the beach clean up event so I came in. There were a lot of people there and it was great to see that my fellow foilers cared about keeping the earth clean. We all picked up trash, with a lot of cigarette buds all over the place. I was surprised that so many people smoked on the island. The place looked better after our efforts. I watched as Jason gave a competitor update and information on the schedule for the next day. We were all excited.

Saturday morning, I was at the beach before light. The event was in the canoe house on the southside of the bay overlooking the break. I helped until it just started to get light out and then snuck out to the beach to get a few waves before the event started. I had an hour before the competition started. I paddled out in the dim light to find I was the only one out. I felt the pressure again since there were a bunch of people including much better foilers than me on the shoreline and most likely looking at what I was doing. I tried not to look like an idiot. I foiled by myself for about thirty minutes. The wave was the same as the days before. Shifty and bumpy, but good if you knew where to be. I was able to get a bunch of waves since I was alone and could sit where I felt I should instead of in relation to others around me. The wave is a right-hand break that then backs off on the inside to become a swell that shifts around. You can foil all the way to the beach through the washing machine section. I would get out before that section to pump back out in the deep channel that is to the right of the break. This is such a great set up since it allows you to pump or paddle to the side of the break, that is out of the way of your fellow foilers and surfers, back to the lineup. If you are a great pumper then you can pump way outside to find a swell before it forms up to break. This allows for you to be in a perfect position to play the wave. I could pump to the inside breaking wave and do a roundhouse to get back into the wave but could not make it out beyond the lineup. I had a great session with waves to pick and choose from. It was what I had become used to foiling back home. The time for the first heat was getting close so I came in to dry off and change into some cloths to watch the event. I did not want to miss any of it.

The first heat I was nervous the whole time. I have been to a few surf events and was bored with the time between waves which could be a long time. Foiling is very different. Your wave selection is important but unlike surfing you can make something of a not so perfect wave or pump to a better wave. The competition allowed one to pump back out for a second wave, but you could not pump into a third or fourth wave. I thought that was a great rule. During the first heat I felt sorry for the judges since there were multiple occasions where two to three foilers were up and foiling. Some going in and some pumping out. This made it very entertaining since there was rarely a time that no one was up and foiling. Heat one was history and the first one to win the very first heat was Mateo Ell. You made history! During the second heat it started to down pour, and I mean barely able to see the competitors type of heavy rain. I was worried but in about 10 minutes it was gone, and you could watch again. Each heat was full of action and firsts. The men’s division went first and the was followed by the women’s division. The women were charging, and you could feel the all-out effort. The SUP division was fun to watch with all the airs and radical turns they were doing. The SUP’s were allowed to use foot straps so they could pull off things the prone guys could not. It was impressive. Controversy did not pass the contest by. In the men’s division Henry was named the winner of the heat and although he foiled well it was not nearly the same as Mateo. We all scratched our heads at the results. It was contested by Mateo’s dad and rightly so with the discovery that the judges had swapped the two riders scores and Mateo was the winner of the heat and would move on while Henry did not. Poor Henry went from king of the world to reality check with in five minutes.

The finals of the women’s and SUP divisions were amazing. Foilers were going for it which resulted in either a big reward or very small score depending on if they made it or not. Consistency was key and you could tell that they were physically fatigued in the later rounds. Foiling is very physically demanding, much more so than surfing. One hour in the water on a foil is much more demanding than the same on a surfboard. I cannot remember getting off a wave surfing and being completely out of breath, but this is the norm for a foil ride.

The men’s division final was thrilling. Every one of the guys out there were great foilers. Out of those four I cannot say that one was so much better than the others. It was close and I had no idea who had one, which I could guess in the early heats.

In the SUP division

1st Mateo Ell
2nd Kalani Vierra
3rd Leleo Kinimaka
4th Willie Marshall

In the Women’s prone division

1st Glennel Jordan
2nd Markioko Stricland
3rd Nathalie Sato
4th Yulia Burko

In the Men’s prone division

1st Jakie Posion
2nd Mateo Ell
3rd Ezra Washburn
4th Scott McNally

After the contest the awards ceremony was entertaining. I have never stayed around for one before, so it was a first for me. The giveaway raffles and alternative awards were great. I actually won one of the raffle goodie bags and it was full of great stuff. Foil and foil boards were auctioned off for a good cause. The awards for each final were short but well done. Jason and his family along with other dedicated foilers worked hard to make the contest run smoothly and be entertaining as well. I was impressed with the way the contest was run.

The contest lasted all day with the awards ceremony happening during the dinner. The whole thing lasted from before dawn to after dusk. It was a great day. I was there for the whole thing and enjoyed the who time. I knew a lot of my fellow foilers would have liked to have been at the contest. In the tradition of classic surfer lore when I say “You really missed it, it was epic.” It is actually true. Epic is the appropriate word for the contest. I am sure in 40 years when they do a documentary on the history of foiling The Kalapaki Bay Challenge will be part of it. I had the honor of experiencing the event and in the future, I will be one of those old guys talking about how I was there to witness it.